Till the age of 20 I have loitered in and around the little town of Trivandrum. It is a charming town with beautiful beaches, a wonderful railway station, a bunch of engineering and medical colleges, a not too terrible International Airport, some really good schools and a lot of small way side eateries which is a food lovers delight. But I should warn you that there is no subway where you can spend a lazy afternoon or a mac donalds to take your kid out for a quick snack. Subways, Pizza Huts, Mac Donalds were all a new phenomenon for me once I reached Hyderabad. But there is something very unique to Kerala which I believe is something every malayali is proud of – The Indian Coffee House.
They are spread across the length and breadth of this land. After very long, today I had the fortune of going to an Indian Coffee House. In a fast moving world where I can’t even be sure if a two way road in the morning is one way by evening it filled me with a weird nostalgia and delight how the ICH (Indian Coffee House) hasn’t changed a bit. The chairs were still the same, the uniform of the waiters were still the same white and they still wear the Nehru caps, even the curtain drapes were the same.
For those who don’t know the ICH, let me give you a small description of the place. Each Coffee House looks different, but it does give the feel of a place which has an intellectual air about it with many a guy sitting in a corner stroking his beard and having a Malayalam weekly in his hand. The tables are plain with no fancy mats on them or fancy glasses atop to please the aesthetic. The walls have their special dishes plastered on them which I don’t think has changed ever since inception of the ICH. Anytime of the day, the place is lively with discussion and chatter. One can see crowd of all strata, be it the coolie or the white kutra clad politician or the young college goer, they are all there having their chai and talking.
If all these people are there, you can imagine what the pricing could be. It is damn cheap. Where else can you find a cold coffee for 15 bucks? A masala dosa for 12 bucks? I don’t think that’s quite common, and mind you…its damn tasty, don’t think its some cheap stuff. Ever heard of something called the mutton omelette? That’s their speciality, a well cooked yellow omelette draped around mince fried mutton which can give any non vegetarian a palatal orgasm, and again – damn cheap. A decent tasty meal wouldn’t cost you more than 20 bucks. Ah…ICH, the poor man’s Taj.
True, in my early youth I did not know who Ronald Mac Donald was or what was the latest addition to a Pizza Corner Menu card, but I can say I have had the fortune of having a chai, spending time with a select few friends and munching on the wonderful mutton omelette of The Indian Coffee House. This I believe is an experience no High funda eat street can give you. For me, the ICH holds a very special and fond memory too, during the days when I used to freelance for the Hindu Metro Plus, I did the interview of one of the top college bands in Kerala during those times in a corner of the ICH sipping chai and discussing Heavy Metal. During my Uni-Y days (The university wing of the YMCA) after a heated debate on topics ranging from politics to porn, we would all go to the ICH to have our tummy fill.
There are some things unique to a place, The Indian Coffee House is one experience. You have to be there to know it. Felt good to see that structure still up and alive catering to the common man. Hats off…
kotipichu kollum !
ReplyDelete@ Nomad in Writing : If that was achieved, my post is not a bad one!
ReplyDeleteYou didn't mention the unique architecture of the ICH in TVM. I don't think I've ever been to ICH, but the building always caught my eye.
ReplyDelete@ Spaceman Spiff: Well, I didn't on purpose. Thats the only ICH in Trivadrum with that structure, designed by Baker. All the others are normal constructions. That is why I didn't mention that single architecture.
ReplyDeleteAh.. ok. I though there was only one.
ReplyDeleteOh yes... three years in Trivandrum, and most evenings were spent either in a movie theatre (available in plenty, where plush balcony seats were 20 bucks, and the dear Coffee House) This the same one where you go climbing up the winding path, and where the servers wear the unique headgear? Brings back such warm memories! Thanks!
ReplyDelete@ Nirvana: There are some 3 or 4 ICH's in Trivandrum. But the unique Laurie Baker construction right opposite the Tvm Railway station stands out. They still wear the unique head gear and they still serve the same menu!
ReplyDeleteSho, oru blog kondu enganeya manushyane kodipikyuga - should be your next post:)
ReplyDeleteMy last visit was over a year ago but the hot steaming coffee's taste lingers. So does the crunch in the uzhunu vada.
True that, in an age of PizzaHut and Mc.D's, ICH is unparalleled and will always hold special memories in every other Malayali's heart.
@ Priyanka: Do I know you?
ReplyDeleteThanks for the comment. If I ever write a post on culinary temptations I will sure dedicate it to you ;-)
Keep visiting.
A tag for you, loser. :p
ReplyDeletehttp://divyathemostuseful.blogspot.com/2011/06/tag-time.html
Good post! :)
ReplyDeleteAgree totally about the tvm ICH experience.
Also, I went to the ICH at CP in Delhi today and it was awesome! Couldn't believe such a place existed in the mad rush that was surrounding it.
Waaaah! now that was my tummy screaming + wailing. ICH has the best cutlet! Yes tahst what i remember...
ReplyDeleteThe waiters with their long fanned out cap..hah!
You brought back those memories
@ Red Handed: Oh yea...their cutlets are the best, and beyond everything they still taste the same. Its like the same cook over the years...
ReplyDelete@ HRC: I haven't had ICH food from anywhere else except Kerala, next time I'm in Delhi, sure thing! But in Delhi, there are so many places....Karim's tops the list though.
ReplyDeleteim a first timer on your blog..being a true blooded tvmite..i cudnt help pointing out that there is indeed a Subway in tvm, and for pizza there is Dominoes!
ReplyDelete@ A nobody: Dear friend, I am talking about my situation 5 or 6 years back. I know now there is a Subway and a Dominos in Trivandrum.
ReplyDelete